Worlds deadliest drinking game... Take a shot every time Coach Hörst talks about how long he’s been climbing or how good he is at coaching. Edit: Revisiting after a year and several episodes. Omg, I have never heard a human being speak for so long and say nothing at all. The latest episode speaking about Drew is infuriating. In the first minute he says everything he wants to say and for nineteen more minutes he repeats everything he’s already said. “And again” “like I said” “not to beat a dead horse but…” “again” “once more” “again”.

If you’re looking to improve your climbing or just learn more about climbing and climbing fitness look no further!! I’ve been listening to Training for Climbing for the last year and I can tell you first hand I’ve learned so much from Eric! Great guy who has great intentions and is trying to help us all better our climbing and climbing knowledge! Highly recommend!!

The host is extremely long winded. It makes it very hard to listen for good info when the podcast is 1.5 hours for 5-10 min of good info. Please shorten the episodes to be more direct. You can tell how intelligent and knowledgeable he is but it gets dull very quickly. He is constantly say one more thing, one more thing, one more thing. This podcast would be great to shorten the length to make it more palatable.

…if you are into fact based, data supported and science driven analysis. Tough to only listen to each episode just once. Thank you, Eric!

Don’t get me wrong. There are plenty of great climbing podcasts to listen to. But as someone who doesn’t feel climbing is the end all/be all of my life, I choose to limit how much of my attention it gets so that I don’t miss out on all the other wonderful things life has to offer. The reason this podcast makes the cut is that nearly ever episode teaches me something about climbing/training. As someone who likes to do research and has 15-plus years in the sport, the other podcasts out there just don’t compare in terms of actionable information. Obviously, this stance is subjective. But if you’re looking for less conversation and storytelling and more concrete advice on how to progress in the sport, look no further.

Coach Horst breaks down the science of climbing/training in a manner that’s both detailed and accessible. The result is a show that delivers actionable content week after week. My climbing has improved dramatically by employing the concepts he lays out — for free — in these episodes. His passion and expertise are unrivaled. This is a great show for climbers of all levels to listen to and revisit from time to time!

I don’t know why some think it is clever to bring covid into things that have nothing to do with it, but his new intro, “your monthly audio injection, a proven virtual vaccination…” Give me a break. We come to podcasts to NOT think about the craziness in our society, not to be reminded of it in asinine ways that have no correlation whatsoever. If his monotone and slow talking wasn’t hard enough to keep me listening…that did it for me.

I listen to this because it is consistently about the topic of training for climbing. Most of the other competitors waste your time on irrelevant topics and guests. Eric has credibility and real actionable information. The 4 versus 5 stars is because he does self deal his products a bit too much. Nonetheless, it is consistently a worthwhile listen.

I live how coach Eric does not try to sound cool and douchey like the other podcast. He is like a teacher and he keeps it very interesting. This channel and his book are what i look forward to on my "me time". Thank you coach Eric! Keep up the good work!

I consider Eric the go-to resource for all things training for climbing. I love that this material exists in podcast form because it means I can brush up in core training concepts - hangboard protocols? energy systems? goal setting? - while driving to Yosemite or wherever the next adventure awaits. Eric researches meticulously, which means you can trust that his content represents the most current synthesis of science in training for climbing. Thanks for this gift to the community, Eric!

So helpful

Eric Hörst provides the greatest base of cutting edge and in-depth knowledge on the science of climbing. If you are serious about improving your overall game in climbing, this is the greatest podcast on the planet!! Trust me, I’ve searched. Thanks Eric and keep up the great work!

Just what I need to keep me motivated during covid-times! Thanks Eric.

Loved the energy systems training series, and I always have a good time nerding out about exercise science and physiology with Eric

Such a great resource of information on training. Each episode needs to be listened to at least twice! So much good stuff to absorb.

Eric has helped me, to take on my mental game!!!! As well as the physical side!!!! Love it

I like Eric’s suggestions on climbing because he talks all aspects from mental to physical to nutrition and other complimentary exercises. In addition, he talks about how everyone is different so apply the techniques to yourself as you need. Although it is for climbers I do believe his podcasts could help any athlete with some fine tuning of complimentary exercises.

I have followed Eric Horst's writings for many years and have become a better climber for it. This podcast is remarkable - loads of high quality content absolutely free of charge. I am no dogmatic follower of rules or prescriptions, nor of fads or 'the next best newest thing', and this is not what Eric is offering. He is offering pertinent information gathered and gleaned from the best current research on our extremely complex sport/hobby/life style of climbing, and if you are serious about improving your climbing than this is an excellent source of information to add to your knowledge base, and will help you become your own best self-coach.

Eric provides a great variety of info at a very high quality level. The podcasts have solid audio quality and Eric has a nice tone and pace. I have used this podcast to discover training methods, supplements and tactics that have been a launching point for focused efforts to improve in climbing. Glad for this podcast. Redpoint 5.11a Onsight 5.10c Indoor boulder V6 Indoor redpoint 5.12

Other climbing podcasts about training meander through interviews where you have to listen for hours for that golden nugget that can help you. Not so with Hörsts podcast. He clearly plans them out to deliver the info you need in a applicable package. More like a training audiobook than a podcast, and I mean that in the best way possible

Eric Hörst does a phenomenal job with these podcasts. I feel lucky that these are free and available to everyone. He has great training advice and ideas and talks through how to implement them. His energy system training is a GAME CHANGER for any serious climber wanting to take this sport to the next level. I listen to these podcasts while mowing the lawn, riding my bike, and cooking food. Many of the you need to listen to multiple times to get all the information out of. I also enjoy how Eric’s books follow along with what he says in the podcast (reading his books and listening to the podcast is the best way to learn). I have emailed Eric through his nicros website and he responded quickly just like he says he will try to in podcast. I think it is very kind of him to respond to personal emails from climbers that are no where near pro status. I greatly respect Eric and all that he does. I feel like if I ever ran into him at the crag he would be incredibly friendly. Thanks for doing what your doing Eric. We all appreciate it!

The information on this podcast can be good, once he gets to it. The messaging could be much clearer and more to the point. In a recent podcast, he kept on repeating “again” — he knew he was repeating information, but either couldn’t or wouldn’t stop. In spent over 30 minutes waiting through his build up for about 5 minutes of good information.

Eric’s the man. Best podcast out there! I’ve listened to each episode a couple of times. Positive, informative, encouraging, and even relaxing. I couldn’t recommend more.

Too bad all we here about is the book and his new collagen product. Unsubscribing.

I was pretty skeptical with some of the marketing of his products but there’s a lot of good science behind this and it’s been tested. I’m a connective tissue injury prone climber. After a week few days of his collegen product and protective training protocol though I could already notice an improvement in finger pain. It all takes time but it works.

If you are a climber looking to improve your knowledge and ability- look no further. Eric is an authority on proper training to maximize performance and minimize injury. As a middle aged dad- this is brilliant. Thanks Eric for what you do.

Eric is incredibly passionate and a brilliant researcher. I’ve listened to every single podcast and love them.

as someone with a background in healthcare, eric does a great job of synthesizing tons of complex research and explaining it to a broad, non-scientific audience without dumbing it down. he brings the information to your level of understanding but does not leave things out for simplicity of explanation - which is much appreciated. thanks eric! - nolan

Super Informative

That’s it... there is some good info in this podcast but it could be 1/6 of the length if the organization and clarity was better

Used to be sixty minutes for thirty minutes of good info back when he was merely hawking his books. (I own three—they’re good books, but that’s not the point). Now that he’s selling a collagen supplement, it’s five minutes of useful information on collagen supplementation and the rest is sales talk. (I bought his collagen supplement and use it happily because I think it will have a marginal benefit, but that’s not the point.). The point is this: there’s some good info in these podcasts, but it will take a lot of your time to get it.

Most recent pod comes across as poorly written ad copy. It follows the familiar formula... “Don’t believe what they say, there’s hope for you. I’ve been doing this research for two years. Others may have tried to sell you snake oil. We found a formula. This is what I do every day. The only way to improve. The only source for this breakthrough formula is my new website.” I want that hour back. Remember the first rule in nutrition supplements is there is no magic formula. Anyone who tries to sell you on one is a shill. I was quite enjoying listening to this guy but this one was such a turnoff that I don’t know if I can trust anything he says or if I’ll be turning on an infomercial when I’m looking for a podcast.

I have listened to nearly every episode at least twice these past few years. By far my favourite climbing related podcast. Getting into the nitty gritty of the sport science and always at the forfront of scientific research. Thank you Coach Hörst!

It’s awesome that Eric brings new information into the game. No other podcast is doing this and Eric is killing it. I took one star away though because he tends to ramble a lot about somewhat unrelated stuff, makes it hard to listen to sometimes. I’ll keep listening, but I might curate which episodes I choose because of this.

Hands down, this is the best climbing training podcast. Eric is very articulate in correlating scientific evidence to training methods. Eric always explains why you should do a particular training protocol. Keep up the good work and thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I’ve listened to the others, and this one is the most authoritative and scientific climbing training podcast. Thanks for your hard work Eric!

Excellent technical information about training for climbing. Definitely has made my approach to training more intelligent and informed. After just a few months of listening and applying the info from this podcast, I’ve already experienced great gains - and the improvements feel way more sustainable than they ever have. I feel confident I’m on a solid trajectory to exceed my former peak!

Eric's podcasts have allowed me to expand my coaching through a better integration energy system concepts with the technical coaching I'm known for in my community. I had been looking for a better way to give the athletes who trust me more advanced training in aspects of climbing I'm not as proficient at, and bionergentics appeared to be my primary weakness. Eric's podasts on Energy System Training have given me a better grounding in our sport's energy requirements. I highly recommend the series, though as Eric says, you may have to listen more than once. - Taylor

Eric Horst has given us a great look into the practice and science of climbing training. These training lectures are truly excellent teachings, he delivers this information fully without becoming boring. Thank you professor Horst!!

Eric Hörst is deeply knowledgeable. His podcasts are helpful, practical, and inspiring. I have learned so much about how to become a stronger climber from these podcasts. I highly recommend it for anybody looking to improve the quality of their climbing training.

I majored in Exercise Science and I've got to say, Eric's understanding is on par my favorite ex. physiology teachers. His ability to apply it and create strategies for rope climbers is outstanding. Eric is a great teacher! For those without any prior background, it may take a few rounds to absorb the material but it is worth it.

If you want to get serious info on how to train for rock climbing this is your podcast. It does not offer a quick fix or instant gratification. Eric Horst goes into great detail about energy systems and training practices. This is an awesome podcast for hardcore climbers and coaches looking to learn more about how best to train for our complicated sport.

My climbing partner and I eagerly await each new episode and discuss in depth afterward listening. Following Eric's training recommendations has allowed both of us to improve greatly in the last two years!

This podcast is great I have his training for climbing book already but this podcast keeps me up on latest science advancements and often answers questions I have in regards to my training. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

The most informative and well researched podcast on training. The sheer volume of the information can get overwhelming at times, but that means I just listen to it multiple times. From thousands of miles away I feel lucky to have access to this type of cutting edge information. The show notes with a rough outline of the podcast really help, you really want to focus and sit down to listen to this stuff.

Super informative. Enough info in these to listen multiple times.

The best training advice I've come across online. You can tell this information is coming from someone who is (A) a lifetime climber, and (B) dilligent in his research. I also have his book, which I love.

I have been climbing for 13 months and to be able to stand on the shoulders of 40 years of genuine experience is beyond valuable. Because of this pod cast I can visualize the arc of current to future climbing/trainig. Eric leads by example (Pod 5.13b/8a) and at age 54 makes a human proud by by climbing smart, precise and powerfully. Thank You Eric.

Have really enjoyed the podcasts! the latest ones have all the science, but sometimes the simple message of "the average climber using a 7/1 ratio for length of time on each hold vs 2/1 for ondra" is very helpful. Been trying out picking up my speed and that is a great "hack" that shows immediate results! Also love the 3 categories of P/E training discussion. Great job on a great podcast!

Coach Horst’s books are great guides to improved climbing performance, and these thoughtful podcasts provide additional context and instruction that is really motivating. I learn something from each episode.